Things to Do in Bosnia and Herzegovina

About Bosnia and Herzegovina

The first thing you notice in Sarajevo is the call to prayer from the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque drifting over the Baščaršija cobblestones, followed by the smell of roasting coffee beans and grilled ćevapi. This is a city where East and West don’t just meet—they share a bench, drink a Bosnian coffee, and argue about football. The Latin Bridge, where a spark lit the fuse of World War I, sits a five-minute walk from the eternal flame memorial to World War II, which itself is a stone’s throw from the bullet-pocked Holiday Inn that housed journalists during the Siege of the 1990s. History here isn’t in layers; it’s all on the surface, raw and unvarnished. You’ll pay 5 KM ($2.80) for a full plate of ćevapi at Željo, and 3 KM ($1.70) for a copper džezva of thick, sludgy coffee at a centuries-old kafana. But Bosnia and Herzegovina’s beauty—the emerald-green Neretva cutting through Mostar’s iconic Stari Most, the wooden minarets piercing the sky in Počitelj—exists alongside a palpable, post-war melancholy and infrastructure that can feel charmingly haphazard. That friction, that unresolved chord, is precisely why it sticks with you long after you’ve left.

Travel Tips

Transportation: Intercity travel hinges on a network of private bus companies that are cheap but run on Balkan time—schedules are suggestions, and buses leave when full. A ticket from Sarajevo to Mostar costs about 20 KM ($11) and takes two scenic hours through the mountains. Your best bet is to buy tickets at the station an hour before departure; online schedules are notoriously optimistic. In cities, trams in Sarajevo are reliable and cost 1.80 KM ($1) per ride—just validate your ticket on board. Taxis are affordable but insist they use the meter; the trip from Sarajevo Airport to the city center should run about 20 KM ($11), not the 50 KM ($28) some drivers might initially quote.

Money: The official currency is the Convertible Mark (KM or BAM), pegged to the Euro at a fixed rate of 1 EUR = 1.95583 KM. Cash is king, especially outside major cities and for small vendors. ATMs are widespread, but those from UniCredit Bank or Raiffeisen tend to have lower fees. You can often pay in Euros at shops and restaurants, but you’ll get change in KM at a lousy rate. A solid local lunch—like a burek from a bakery or a portion of ćevapi—runs 3-7 KM ($1.70-$3.90). A major pitfall: many smaller accommodations and tour guides quote prices in Euros but expect payment in KM, which can lead to confusion. Always confirm the currency.

Cultural Respect: Bosnia and Herzegovina is a delicate mosaic of Bosniaks (mostly Muslim), Serbs (mostly Orthodox Christian), and Croats (mostly Catholic). Be mindful of which entity you’re in—the Federation or Republika Srpska—as symbols, flags, and even language preferences shift. In majority-Bosniak areas like Sarajevo’s old town, dressing modestly when visiting mosques (shoulders and knees covered, headscarves provided) is expected. When toasting, make eye contact—it’s a sign of respect. The war of the 1990s is not a historical footnote; it’s lived memory. Let locals guide conversations about it. A simple, respectful way to connect is to accept invitations for coffee; the ritual of preparing and sharing Bosanska kafa is a cornerstone of hospitality.

Food Safety: The rule is simple: eat where the locals are queuing. The ćevapi at Hodžić in Visoko or the burek at Buregdžinica Bosna in Sarajevo are not just good—they’re institutions with a high turnover, which is your best guarantee of freshness. Street food like grilled corn or sudžukice (spicy sausages) from sizzling grills is generally safe. Tap water in Sarajevo is safe to drink and famously clean, tasting of the mountain springs that feed it. In rural areas or smaller towns, stick to bottled water. Avoid pre-cut fruit salads from stationary stands. For an authentic (and safe) feast, head to a traditional restaurant like Dveri in Sarajevo’s old town and order a mixed grill; the meat is sourced locally and cooked over wood or charcoal, not sitting under a lamp.

When to Visit

Your experience of Bosnia and Herzegovina hinges entirely on the season. Late spring (May-June) is arguably perfect: temperatures in Sarajevo hover between 15-25°C (59-77°F), the mountains around Jahorina and Bjelašnica are lush and green, and the crowds in Mostar are manageable. Hotel prices are reasonable, roughly 30-40% lower than the July-August peak. Summer (July-August) brings heat—inland temperatures can spike to 35°C (95°F)—and thick crowds that choke Mostar’s Stari Most. This is festival season, though, with the Sarajevo Film Festival in August drawing a creative, international crowd. Flights and accommodation can cost double the spring rate. Autumn (September-October) is a close second to spring, with crisp air, golden foliage along the Una River, and harvest festivals celebrating everything from apples to grapes. Winter (November-March) is for a specific traveler: days are short and gray, and many rural attractions shut down. But from December onward, Sarajevo transforms into a charming, low-key ski destination. A day pass at Bjelašnica runs about 45 KM ($25), a fraction of Alpine costs, and the city’s foggy, cobbled streets under lamp-light have a poignant, wartime-era atmosphere. If you despise crowds and don’t mind cold, come in February; if you want to hike to Kravice waterfalls without a tour group, aim for late September.